Ah, the glorious Bong . . . Battambong that is. It was absolutely amazing to get away from the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh. On the way up to Battambang, we took a taxi with 3 other local adults, one of which was a mother with a 3 month old baby and 5 year old daughter. The mother was particularly amazing in that she had to change the baby's nickers multiple times during the 3-4 hour car ride. A. graciously invited me to stay at her house in Battambang, which was fantastic and we were visited by a lot of the neighbor kids, some of whom were extremely mischievous (really cute) and had the habit of yelling "baraangbaraangbaraangbaraang" in my ear (just in case I forgot :) ). We made paper airplanes during the day and strummed along tunelessly on the guitar by candlelight at night.
Listening to the cicadas and crickets, along with an occasional odd remark from a gecko, and stargazing definitely rejuvenated me for another week at work. Across the road there was a woman who sold these phenomenal rice treats (about 100 rial a pop, which equals a couple of US cents), flavors including banana, pumpkin, and coconut in addition to some savory options. The treats are wrapped up and steamed in banana leafs and I don't think I have ever tasted anything so delicious in my life.
"DOES SHE WANT ANOTHER ONE?"
One of the men on the car ride up (thankfully he was sitting in front) decided that I looked Khmer and kept asking me if I had a boyfriend or if I was married. Of course, I lied and A. helped me. The conversation (mixed with English & Khmer) went a little like this:
The guy: "Do you have boyfriend? You married?"
A : "Oh yes, she's engaged and he is very big and handsome." (This is a common response. Translation-- he can beat you up, leave us alone.)
The guy: "Oh. Where is he?"
A: "He's from/in America."
The guy: "Oh. That's so far away. Does she want another one?"
Rosie piping up: "Um, no thanks, I'm good."
This is a common conversation here, and part of the standard range of questions that get asked upon meeting someone new, which include:
* What's your name?
* How old are you? (If this is asked after the marriage question (see below), I am often met with a look of sympathy or concern.)
* Nationality (followed by, "Oh, you don't look American" . . . so I launch into my standard explanation "Ma knyom jen" = "My mother is Chinese")
* Are you married? Why not? Are you engaged? Do you have a boyfriend? Are you ever planning on getting married?
WEDDING SEASON:
Went to my very first Khmer wedding and it was incredibly beautiful (am going to another wedding this weekend). The bride changed dresses (all very colorful) about three times while I was there, but apparently there are many more dress changes that go on. Each time the bride changed, the bridesmaids also changed to match her, and the groomsmen changed a couple times as well. There was lots of dancing around a table both Khmer style (my Khmer dancing is hilariously abysmal) and Western style (come to think of it, my overall dancing ability is questionable). With 8 courses of food, nobody went hungry (except perhaps for the vegetarians), and a good time was had by all.
"Saart" (Pretty/Beautiful) - We decided that we would get all saart-ed out for the wedding . . . Cambodian style. We rented dresses from the market (which you would have to see to believe) which are clearly from the 80s, colorful, and awesome. In addition, we got our hair and make-up done at a local salon, and I have to say - I haven't had that much make-up put on my face since my acting debut in Wydown Middle School's production of The Pirates of Penzance. Big eyes, big hair. Awesome. Also, trying to ride a moto side-saddle in a satiny dress is not the safest decision I have ever made in my life. After slipping off (well, kind of jumping off because I was starting to slide), I decided to be completely inappropriate and ride normally (normally for me that is). We got a bunch of hollers as we sped through town and looked ridiculous (which is also awesome).
Interesting notes on weddings: people do not typically buy wedding presents. Instead, people bring ten dollars and put in an envelope to give to the couple. The wedding ceremonies usually take 3 days and guests only go to the reception part. Also, if you don't have the money (and it's really expensive) you can't get married, which means you can't live together or anything.
Ok, I think that's about all I can take regarding weddings, marriage, and anything related to the relationship business.
PEACE
p.s. I have decided that roosters scare me. No, it's not the bird flu issue - rather, it that they are bullies and are inappropriately loud at the most inopportune of times.
Tuesday, February 26, 2008
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Small Adventures
Apologies for not writing for awhile, work is a circus right now. A circus I say! As the office is busily working on upcoming projects to be launched in March, combined with my unit's work . . . emotions are running pretty high! I was going to write a short piece on Men and Women (hilarious stuff), but am running low on time, so I thought an update might suffice for now.
About a week ago I went on a short boating cruise down the Mekong with some people from work and their friends. We took off from the "dock" in front of the Royal Palace right after sunset, and although it was dark and I couldn't see much, the wind in my hair, good food, and good company provided a much needed release from the hectic work schedule that is my life. Sitting on the upper deck, I blocked out the hip hop that was being played for a 2 year old's birthday party on the lower deck (we got to cheer her on as she was supposed to blow out the candles--freaking adorable b/c her older sister blew them out before she got a chance) and concentrated on having non-work-related conversation.
After the boat ride we walked along the riverfront, through throngs of people who were getting an early start on the weekend, and past the vendors who were selling roses and candy for Valentine's day. Shuddered whenever I passed a creepy baraang man with a young Khmer women/girl (the next day I heard that 80% of the kids who work on the riverfront have been sexually abused. . . although I'm not sure about the accuracy of that statistic, I don't doubt that it's a high percentage).
Eventually we returned to where my work friend, T., had parked his moto, and he kindly gave me a lift home. Now, it has already been established that I'm a huge dork, but as further evidence--I get a little giddy whenever I get a ride from a friend here because it makes me feel like I live here and am not just a tourist (although undoubtedly I am still an outsider and will always be so, even if I stayed for the rest of my life). All the same. Giddy. Of course, all of this giddiness totally means that I'm still a tourist.
Hanging out down by the riverside a couple nights following the boat cruise, I've decided that it might be too touristy for me. I did find a good Thai restuarant and a bar called the Cantina (many thanks to C. for introducing me to these places). Still, when I find myself surrounded by more Westerners than Khmers, I start to feel a little guilty-- as if I'm not doing enough soaking of the local culture. Combine that with recent trip to the delicious but deadly Lucky Burger (think McDonald's only with the addition of a fancy coffee stand and gelato place), I definitely find myself in need of breaking away, as much as possible, from the pervasive Western influence here.
I am hoping to take a break this weekend and travel to Battambang, a province in the Northwest, with a friend from work, but am not sure if I have the time . . . you know, laundry (which takes me forever, but it's better than being stinky and offending all my officemates!) and cleaning to be done (oh yeah, and that little thing called work). All the same, it would be nice to get away from the city and I hear Battambang is beautiful.
Additional Awesome People:
About a week ago I went on a short boating cruise down the Mekong with some people from work and their friends. We took off from the "dock" in front of the Royal Palace right after sunset, and although it was dark and I couldn't see much, the wind in my hair, good food, and good company provided a much needed release from the hectic work schedule that is my life. Sitting on the upper deck, I blocked out the hip hop that was being played for a 2 year old's birthday party on the lower deck (we got to cheer her on as she was supposed to blow out the candles--freaking adorable b/c her older sister blew them out before she got a chance) and concentrated on having non-work-related conversation.
After the boat ride we walked along the riverfront, through throngs of people who were getting an early start on the weekend, and past the vendors who were selling roses and candy for Valentine's day. Shuddered whenever I passed a creepy baraang man with a young Khmer women/girl (the next day I heard that 80% of the kids who work on the riverfront have been sexually abused. . . although I'm not sure about the accuracy of that statistic, I don't doubt that it's a high percentage).
Eventually we returned to where my work friend, T., had parked his moto, and he kindly gave me a lift home. Now, it has already been established that I'm a huge dork, but as further evidence--I get a little giddy whenever I get a ride from a friend here because it makes me feel like I live here and am not just a tourist (although undoubtedly I am still an outsider and will always be so, even if I stayed for the rest of my life). All the same. Giddy. Of course, all of this giddiness totally means that I'm still a tourist.
Hanging out down by the riverside a couple nights following the boat cruise, I've decided that it might be too touristy for me. I did find a good Thai restuarant and a bar called the Cantina (many thanks to C. for introducing me to these places). Still, when I find myself surrounded by more Westerners than Khmers, I start to feel a little guilty-- as if I'm not doing enough soaking of the local culture. Combine that with recent trip to the delicious but deadly Lucky Burger (think McDonald's only with the addition of a fancy coffee stand and gelato place), I definitely find myself in need of breaking away, as much as possible, from the pervasive Western influence here.
I am hoping to take a break this weekend and travel to Battambang, a province in the Northwest, with a friend from work, but am not sure if I have the time . . . you know, laundry (which takes me forever, but it's better than being stinky and offending all my officemates!) and cleaning to be done (oh yeah, and that little thing called work). All the same, it would be nice to get away from the city and I hear Battambang is beautiful.
Additional Awesome People:
- One of the drivers at my work. He always gives me the low-down on everything from education to medical care to corruption in Cambodia, his views on development work, and the effects of poverty on the majority of people in the country. If there is going to be a revolution, I think it should start with him. We also talk about Chinese movie stars and discuss why it is that we see so many Lexus' on the street (it's kind of disgusting).
- A work friend, A. ,whose background is in awareness theater among many other things. SO creative and empathetic and a much needed support in this crazy mixed up world.
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